Drifter Trailer

Drifter Trailer from Poor Specimen on Vimeo.

Friday, 7pm Patagonia Cardiff screening! Now I give myself a 20%chance of making it down there after work, but I'm definitely going to try.

Thank you Veterans

Happy Veterans day! Here's Levi with a special Veterans day greeting for his Uncle who's currently serving...

As parents, we need to make sure our children respect and appreciate those men and women who have served and are serving in our nations armed services. Remember the next time you're in the grocery store and you see a retiree wearing a shirt or hat with the name of this ship from WWII or Vietnam, stop and say thank you. Its the least we can do for those who have and are protecting the freedoms we hold dear as Americans.

Last Sunday

Got out in the water Sunday morning on a perfect 1ft+ overhead day. Glassy, light off-shores, and good clean NW swell thumpings to be had by all (and by all I mean me). Now I know the wave heights weren't huge by any stretch of the imagination, but when you're on a 9'6" longboard getting pulled over the top, you hit pretty hard! That and on my way in on a well over-head closeout set, but when you're in the water once a week or so, you ride that wave for all its worth, and if it brings you to an unglorious (inglorious?) end, then so be it. All in all, one of the best days out I've had in a while. There's something to be said about how a good beating can help clear the cobwebs out.

Peter Pan-ic

Read a great post in Born to Lose Today that fit here well...

Today, a glorious Sin Diego fall day, I walked up Cowles Mountain (hill) with my three-year-old son. I didn't surf and haven't surfed in the last week, despite the swell. My wife is pregnant and quite ill. I've been on daddy and domestic duty. Delightful and delightful.

Sometime about half way through our walk I surveyed east San Diego and the near suburb of La Mesa, I saw the lake that I run around, pushing a stroller or laboring through predawn miles so I don't miss out on family or surf time later in the day/week. I saw the highways, everywhere highways, that I travel daily for sixty miles. I saw the little canyon that leads to my house from the lake. I saw the hazy western horizon and knew the sea, and decent surf, lay beyond, me missing it. I reflected on my current life. 31 years old, 8 years building a beautiful family with my wife, 9 years in a career I love. I do things I like all the time. I surf, I get outdoors, I create..

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Read the rest here...

Latest

I managed to get out in the water this last Sunday, first time this month but was still able to get some great rides on the slightly fading swell from earlier in the weekend. I was shocked I even managed to catch a wave on a quick turn-one stroke paddle! I haven't done that in a while. It was a perfect day for me to be out after a long dry spell.

You can see I'm still only posting periodically. We're still winding down from the insane summer, and things with a one-year-old are in constant flux, so getting down to a routine is hard.

For all you parents of young children, I can see now the importance of setting a routine early. Set a schedule for naps, eating etc, and then you'll be able to plan accordingly. We have a good schedule going now, but it took us a while to see the importance but we're getting it down now. I'm just looking forward to an empty calender, time with just the family, and crisp mornings with slight offshores and empty(er) line-ups.

Picture from J-Dub

Levi's One!

BAG en Peru (ViaThe Cleanest Line)

From The Cleanest Line.


As the speeding and swaying double-decker bus hurtled head-on toward us in our lane, forcing us onto the shoulder of the Pan American Norte highway, I began to rethink our decision to rent a car in Lima and make the two-day drive up the coast to Chicama and Pacasmayo, two of Peru’s most famous and longest pointbreaks...

...Why didn’t we just book one of those San Diego Dentist Surfari Specials that have become so popular where everything is taken care of – food, flight, transportation, lodging, surf guide, masseuse – maximizing your vacation luxury and minimizing your interaction with all local people except the gated resort’s English speaking staff?

Read the rest here.