Last Sunday

Got out in the water Sunday morning on a perfect 1ft+ overhead day. Glassy, light off-shores, and good clean NW swell thumpings to be had by all (and by all I mean me). Now I know the wave heights weren't huge by any stretch of the imagination, but when you're on a 9'6" longboard getting pulled over the top, you hit pretty hard! That and on my way in on a well over-head closeout set, but when you're in the water once a week or so, you ride that wave for all its worth, and if it brings you to an unglorious (inglorious?) end, then so be it. All in all, one of the best days out I've had in a while. There's something to be said about how a good beating can help clear the cobwebs out.